Two Days in Zanzibar – Tanzania
While September marks the beginning of the fall season in the Northern Hemisphere, the dry season is at its highest pick in Zanzibar. One year ago, at the exact same time, we were in Brazil to celebrate my sister’s birthday and this year she chose to learn about a different culture, which led us to live it up in Tanzania. We started our trip by the Zanzibar Archipelago made up of 3 main islands (Unguja, Pemba, and Mafia) and a number of smaller islands lying together in the Indian Ocean. We only visited Unguja, the largest island, whose capital is Zanzibar city.
Before arriving in Zanzibar we landed in Dar Es Salaam, the Tanzanian capital, where we spent one night in the beautiful Protea Hotel Dar Es Salaam Courtyard ideally located a few minutes away from the ferry terminal. To reach Zanzibar from Dar Es Salaam, you can take a flight for 20 minutes (starting at 50 USD) or the boat for 2 hours (starting at 35 USD). We opted for the boat with the company Azam Marine and reserved our seats online a few days prior to the departure. We recommend to pick your tickets at the office in advance and to present yourself at the gate for the boarding at least 1 hour before the departure. On board of the Kilimanjaro VI, we were comfortably seated on the upper deck in the VIP section. Read on our two days in Zanzibar to help you plan your own itinerary to visit this paradise island.
Day One in Zanzibar – Nungwi and Kendwa Beaches
Where to book a hotel in Zanzibar? For a short stay, the most convenient location for us was definitely in the famous section of Zanzibar city named Stone Town. When you are in Stone Town, it is easy to reach the other parts of the island including the airport located 20 minutes drive away. We lodged at the elegant DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Zanzibar set in the heart of this enchanting Unesco World Heritage Site close to bustling markets, restaurants and historical buildings.
Although we arrived early, the hotel staff welcomed us warmly and we have been able to check in without delay. As shown on Instagram, our suite featured unique furniture, beautifully hand-carved in a traditional Zanzibar style. We took few minutes to pack the essential for the beach then we were already on the road to spend the day walking on white sands and swimming in azure waters.
Where are the best beaches in Zanzibar? You could spend hours reading reviews on TripAdvisor of people debating about where to find the best beach in Zanzibar. One thing for sure, each beach is beautiful but they are different. Chose where to go depending on which experience you are looking for, what activities you plan to do, and how much time do you have.
In addition to white sands and pristine waters, we were looking to swim and a stunning spot to view the sunset. We thought that Nungwi could offer both but Charif, our taxi driver, insisted to bring us to Kendwa before we reached Nungwi. Guess what? He was absolutely right! After almost an hour and a half drive away, we arrived in Kendwa and the beach looked exactly how we had pictured it. Here, you can enjoy the beach life at its best! There are bars, restaurants, entertainments, diving centers, and some parties in the evenings. The water was crystal clear; there were no rocks and no seaweeds. Despite the hassle of beach vendors selling activities and souvenirs, Kendwa was the perfect beach to swim.
Nungwi is located few miles after Kendwa and it is possible to walk for about an hour to go from one beach to another otherwise it’s only 10 minutes by car. When we entered the small village of Nungwi, the road was unpaved and bumpy with large potholes. This is one of the reasons why we were not interested to rent a car for this beach day. Instead, we negotiated a good price with Charif who drives a licensed minivan. Take note that according to the licensed taxis price list, the rate from Stone Town to Kendwa or Nungwi is 80 USD. We are happy to recommend Charif who is honest and very knowledgeable of Zanzibar roads and history. Feel free to send us an email and we will share with you his WhatsApp contact.
In Nungwi, we went to the DoubleTree by Hilton located there because as clients at the Stone Town location we were able to enjoy the resort facilities free of charge and we also get discounts on food and drinks. The beach was stunning but at the time we were there, the waves were too strong for us to swim. That being said, we had a good rest and were able to see the sunset while eating a delicious meal.
Day Two in Zanzibar – Stone Town and Prison Island
Early in the morning, we woke up to the sound of the call to prayer from the nearby mosque. This reminds us that Stone Town is predominantly Muslim and to show respect to local beliefs, we did our best to dress in accordance with their standards. So ladies, if you are wondering what to wear in Stone Town, simply keep in mind that knees, shoulders, and chest should be covered when walking around town. On that day, we both wore the longest dresses we had, as seen in the picture above. As you can notice, my sister (in red) did better than me! Of course, there is no obligation to follow those rules but from our point of view, traveling means opening up to others and showing respect to local codes is a part of this process.
Right after the breakfast, Salim from Easy Travel Tanzania came to pick up at the hotel for a guided tour of Stone Town. We found this tour operator on Instagram by chance when we were planning for our trip. Their feed was so clean that we did not hesitate to contact them for this tour. Easy Travel Tanzania is a top-rated tour operator with more than 30 years of experience in the tourism industry and excels at tailoring experiences to meet their customer needs. Salim is native from Stone Town and joined the company a few years ago.
In Stone Town, you can easily wander for hours through the maze of narrow streets and probably lose yourself. Each corner brings something new – a massive wood door leading to a former palace, a coral-stone mansion, a mosque, an art gallery, and much more. Stone Town’s architecture is a fusion of Indian, Arabic, African and European influences. We briefly visited the Africa House Hotel, which was formerly the English Club until the end of the colonial era. The decor is made of a colonial signature with warm colors and antique-style furniture.
When we left the Africa House, we passed by the front of the St Joseph Catholic Cathedral. Unfortunately, the main entrance is often closed but we admired the impressive front through the railings. While we were walking around the town, we felt the vibrant local vibe through the numerous shops, coffee bar, schools, buildings, and streets.
We reached the Anglican Cathedral, which was constructed on the site of the former slave market after the abolition of the slavery. Inside the church, the altar sadly marks the spot of the whipping tree where slaves were lashed with a stinging branch. Outside the cathedral in the grounds, there is the moving Slave Memorial, which stands as a reminder of the past. We also visited the East Africa Slave Trade Exhibit, which features a series of detailed informative panels to commemorate the abolition of slavery and preserve the legacy of the individuals who were brought there and sold. At the end of the exhibit, there are the former slave chambers where they were imprisoned in terrible conditions before being sold.
From there we went to the colorful Darajani Market, which is the main market of Zanzibar. Opened from 6 am to 4 pm, the market has more than you could imagine. In addition to food, vendors sell clothes, electronics, souvenirs, and much more. It was the perfect moment to talk about the Tanzanian cuisine. Salim shared with us key information about popular local dishes such as ugali – which is made of cassava, urojo – which is a vegetarian soup cooked mainly on Zanzibar Island, and wa kumimina – which is a piece of bread. If you are interested to buy Zanzibar spices, note that some vendors proposed all kind of fancy packs that you won’t find elsewhere.
Since the iconic House of Wonders was closed for renovation, we went directly to the Old Fort. Over the centuries, the fort had various uses from prison to tennis club. Today, thanks to some modernization and the addition of the huge amphitheater, the fort is the headquarters of the Zanzibar International Film Festival. There are also several souvenir shops to buy some local finds and a lovely cafe that turns into a bar at night.
Facing the pale-orange ramparts of the Old Fort stands the Forodhani Gardens, which were the last sight of our guided tour. This waterfront public space is the hub of Zanzibar social life for locals and tourists alike. During the day, the place looks relatively quiet despite the large restaurant jutting into the sea and the small cafes. Right after the sunset, the place starts getting busy and there are many food stalls where you can enjoy street food.
Surprisingly, we did not plan to visit Changuu commonly known as Prison Island because we thought we wouldn’t have enough time to go there. When Salim suggested us to go, he mentioned that it will take less than 3 hours to reach the island, do the visit, and come back to Stone Town right on time for the sunset. We were so enthusiastic to visit this place because we heard about the giant tortoises, so without any hesitation, we accepted to do a second guided tour with Salim during the afternoon.
The island was originally used to detain slaves. Later, the site of a prison was built but only served as a quarantine station for people infected by Leprosy. Today, visitors can enjoy the delightful beach for swimming and snorkeling. On top of that, the most interesting part is without doubts the tortoises’ sanctuary. Meeting those giant tortoises was definitely the highlight of our visit to Prison Island.
On our way back to Stone Town, we passed on the Sunset Dhow Cruise tour because we spent enough time on the boat that day. Instead, we went to the Park Hyatt hotel to view the sunset and enjoy their refined cocktails menu. It was a beautiful way to end up our stay in Stone Town!
To conclude, we would like to share additional tips with you to prepare your travel to Zanzibar:
- Money – The official currency is Tanzanian Shillings (TSH) and you can also pay by cards. Dollars are accepted in many hotels and tourist activities but it is more convenient to use the local money. There are Bureau de Change facilities in Stone Town and some hotels around the island will exchange money.
- Entry Requirements – 80 CDN (for Canadian) or 50 EUR (for European) for the visa. At your arrival, you have to present your Yellow Fever certificate.
- Hassle – People will come up to you frequently in Stone Town, offering tours or trying to sell things. If you don’t want to buy anything, our advice is to be polite and firm.
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