Jordan Travel Guide
Have you ever consider traveling to Jordan? This country is a safe haven in a region of conflicts and attracts visitors from around the world with its friendly towns, inspiring landscapes, and historical heritage.
My sister and I visited Jordan a few weeks ago to celebrate my birthday. Our itinerary included Amman, Madaba, Petra, Wadi Rum, Aqaba, and the Dead Sea. Following our stay, read on to find out what to expect of your visit to Jordan and tips to plan your own trip.
Amman
What to do in Amman?
Despite its ancient lineage, Amman, as it appears today is a young city in continual expansion. The best way to experience the key sights of Amman is on foot. Go in the morning when the light is best for photos, or early evening when the souqs are at their liveliest.
Amman highlights include among others the Citadel with fine hilltop views across Amman, the spectacular Roman Theatre, the Jordan Museum to discover the story of ancient Jordan, and the Darat Al Funum for contemporary art lovers.
We had a limited time in Amman thus we have only visited the Citadel including the Umayyad Palace and the Roman Temple of Hercules. If you need a licensed guide to enhance your visit, you can hire one around the ticket office for up to 15 JOD (19 EUR/28 CAD) per hour. Entrance fee: 2 JOD (2.6 EUR/3.6 CAD).
Where to stay in Amman?
There are several top-end and mid-range hotels located in Jabal and Al Abdali areas close to downtown for a reasonable value for money. Most of the budget accommodations are located downtown.
Al Abdali is the new modern Amman where the past meets the future. We chose this neighborhood and stayed at the brand new W Amman offering stunning views of the seven hills running across the Jordanian capital. We embraced the city’s nightlife at the hotel terrace while sipping refreshing signature cocktails and listening to live music.
Where to eat?
There is a wide range of restaurants serving Arabic and international cuisine in Amman. Budget restaurants are located in downtown whereas upscale options are concentrated in Jabal, Al Abdali and Shmeisani. For falafel, we recommend to try Hashem Restaurant downtown and Alfwal Restaurant on Suliman Al Nabulsi Street (between Ocean Sea Food Restaurant and Abdali Towers Restaurant) in Al Abdali.
Madaba and Mount Nebo
What to do in Madaba?
The market town of Madaba is best know for its collection of mosaics reflecting its rich Christian heritage. The most interesting part of the town is the old quarter on the top of the hill.
It takes at least 2 to 3 hours to visit the main points of interest of the old quarter including churches, archaeological sites, and markets. Here is a list of the highlights of our visit in Madaba:
- St George’s Church: this Greek Orthodox Church is famed for its mosaic map, which represents the oldest map of Palestine in existence and provides historical insights into the region. Entrance fee: 1 JOD (1.3 EUR/ 1.8 CAD).
- Church of the Beheading of John the Baptist: this operational Roman Catholic Church is an inviting destination for visitors. In the chapel, which now acts as a visitor centre, we enjoyed a fascinating exhibition of photographs dating from the early 20th century in the gallery. Entrance fee: 1 JOD (1.3 EUR/1.8 CAD).
- The Souq: we had pleasure soaking up the atmosphere of the market area and buying souvenirs. Prices are lower compared to Amman.
Where to eat in Madaba?
There are a few restaurants in Madaba serving traditional food. Next to the St George Church, Haret Jdoudna Restaurant welcomes you in a 20th-century house charged with a warm atmosphere. This little oasis has a beautiful setting in an open courtyard.
Rated one of the best restaurants in Madaba, Haret Jdoudna also hosts special events with oriental music and entertainment for a lovely night out. We were there for the lunch and we ordered a couple of vegan Mezze dishes listed on the menu. We had a nice gastronomic experience; the food was good and served very nicely.
Mount Nebo
Mount Nebo (or Mt Nebo) is located less than 10 km away from Madaba. According to the Old Testament, Mount Nebo is the place where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land. On a clear day at the Memorial Viewpoint, people can see among other things, the Dead Sea, the Jordan River valley and the distant hills of Jerusalem.
The tall metal sculpture in the middle is The Brazen Serpent Monument made by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni. It features a serpent twisted around a pole. Its head, depicted at the top, is encircled by a loop of its body. This is the serpent mentioned in the book of Numbers (21:4-9).
Inside the basilica dated from the 5th century, there is a stunning collection of Byzantine mosaics. The main mosaic depicts monastic wine-making, hunters and various animals. Entrance fee: 2 JOD (2.6 EUR/3.6 CAD).
Petra
How many days should you spend in Petra?
It’s better to find your own pace in Petra instead of trying to see all the spots in the hurry. Upon our arrival, we attended Petra by Night tour. The day after, we did the Main Trail and the Ad-Deir (Monastery) Trail.
The Petra Visitor Center is your first point of entry to the ancient city. From there you can purchase tickets, book guides and get information about visiting the site. Single entrance fee: 50 JOD (64 EUR/94 CAD).
The Siq
This 1.2 km long narrow gorge leads visitors into the Treasury (Al Khazna). The Siq resulted from a natural splitting of the mountain by tectonic forces and at various points, you can see where the grain of the rock on one side matches the other.
The walk through this magical corridor is full of anticipation for the wonders ahead. The longer you take to travel through it, the more you can savor the final moment of arrival.
The Treasury – Al Khazna
The Treasury is Petra’s most magnificent façade and was probably constructed in the 1st century BCE. It is almost 40 meters high and decorated with Corinthian capitals, figures, and more. The Treasury is sunlit only on the top in the morning thus the best time for taking pictures is in the full sun of the afternoon.
Attending Petra by Night tour gives you the opportunity to admire the façade under the stars and to walk along the Siq lined with candles. This 2-hour tour starts from the Visitor Center until the Treasury in as much silence as possible. In front of the Treasury, a raconteur animates the show while traditional Bedouin music is played and mint tea is served. We did this tour the first day we arrived in Petra and it was such a nice experience. Tickets are available at Petra Visitor Centre before 6pm (Monday, Wednesday & Thursday): 17 JOD (22 EUR/32 CAD).
The Great Temple
The Great Temple Complex represents one of the major archaeological and architectural monuments of central Petra. It was constructed by the end of the 1st century BCE by the Nabataeans who combined their native traditions with the classical spirit. The Great Temple is located after the Colonnaded Street and accessible via the Main Trail.
The Monastery – Ad Deir
When you reach the end of the Main Trail, you can take a break at one of the two restaurants of the Basin Area or continue straight to the Monastery via a trail made of more than 800 steps.
Hidden high in the hills, the Monastery is one of the legendary monuments of Petra. Built in the 3rd century BCE, the Monastery is quite similar in design to the Treasury but far bigger. Depending on how fast you walk, it will take at least 45 minutes to reach the Monastery from the Basin Area.
Where to stay in Petra?
Visitors are requested to leave the site before sunset. You have the choice of more than 90 hotels catering to most budgets but none of which are located inside the Ancient City itself. Sleeping inside the Ancient City of Petra is prohibited.
We opted for the 5-star Mövenpick Resort Petra directly located at the entrance to Petra. We were charmed by the resort oriental flair featuring a combination of natural stone, handcrafted wood, and traditional fabrics and textures.
Wadi Rum
How to experience Wadi Rum?
Wadi Rum is a quintessential desert located between Petra and Aqaba and accessible from a tarmac road off the main Desert Highway. Once you pass the police post, continue towards the visitor centre. Admission to Wadi Rum is controlled and activities must be arranged with the approval of the visitor centre where you also pay your entrance fee.
The easiest way to see the largest number of sights in the least amount of time is to arrange a 4WD trip. It is also much more rewarding when you get out of the vehicle and explore each of the sights on foot.
To experience Wadi Rum, we opted for the Khazali Canyon & Little Rock Bridge Tour. This 2-hour tour does not cover all parts of Wadi Rum but it allowed us to visit a few of the major key sights in a short time, including the following: Nabataean Temple, Rum Village, Lawrence’s Spring, Khazali Sand Dunes, Khazali Canyon, and Little Rock Bridge. Tour pricing: 35 JOD (44EUR/65CAD) per vehicle.
Nabataean Temple
This 2000-year-old temple was built by the Nabataeans and was dedicated to the deity Allat, an Arabian goddess. Take some minutes to visit the ruins and to read the information available on site.
Lawrence’s Spring
This place was named after Lawrence of Arabia who stayed there during the Arab Revolt. Here is a description of the spring extracted from his autobiographical book the Seven Pillars of Wisdom: “In front of us a path, pale with use, zigzagged up the cliff-plinth…From between trees, in hidden crannies of the rock, issued strange cries; the echoes turned into music, of the voices of Arabs watering camels at the spring which there flowed out three hundred feet above the ground.”
Khazali Sand Dunes & Canyon
We enjoyed climbing up the sand dunes piled up against the mountain. We recommend having standard hiking boots or any other closed-toe shoes for a better experience of the sand dunes.
Characterized by a deep and narrow fissure in the mountainside, this canyon is full of rock inscriptions made by tribes from Southern Arabia and later by the Nabataeans around the 4th century BCE.
Little Rock Bridge
The Little Rock Bridge is easy to climb and offers great view across a broad expanse of desert.
Overall, we had a great time in Wadi Rum during this 2-hour guided tour with our friendly driver who tried his best to speak in English. In case you would like more information about the sights, you will find brochures at the visitor center.
Aqaba
Why go to Aqaba?
Aqaba is a modern city enjoying a year-round temperate climate. This city is not overburdened with sights of its own, you go to Aqaba to relax by the beach or go diving into the coral gardens of the Red Sea.
Where to stay in Aqaba?
We spent two relaxing days at the Al Manara, A Luxury Collection Hotel, located on the shores of the Red Sea and set against the rugged backdrop of the expansive granite mountain range.
Al Manara combines design and history, reflecting the ancient city of Aqaba, giving it an authentic and enriching Jordanian character. Among its amenities, the hotel has private sandy beaches, which is a major asset for those looking for an intimate retreat.
We stayed at one of the two villas equipped with a private pool and styled with indigenous accents and distinctive hallmarks. Before leaving for the Dead Sea, we spent a half-day at the Heavenly Spa by Westin accessible via the hotel lobby and offering a diverse range of treatments inspired by local traditions and techniques as featured on our Instagram stories.
Dead Sea
How to enjoy Dead Sea?
Do not miss your chance to float with ease in the Dead Sea! Only float on your back because the salt in the water causes great pain if it comes in contact with the eyes. It is also recommended to wear waterproof sandals to protect your feet from area where the salt is very jagged.
The Free Beach On Dead Sea tagged on Google Map has no lifeguard on duty, is difficult to access due to the hills, and is not clean. Instead of trying to save on the entrance fee, you can opt for a day-pass at a public or private resort with clean facilities starting at 25 JOD (31 EUR/46 CAD).
We stayed two days at the 5-star Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea featuring a private sandy beach and a luxury spa that provides experiences and treatments infused with Dead Sea rich minerals.
We had an absolute privacy experience by the Dead Sea with a stunning view. We enjoyed watching the sunset across the water while eating at the Ashur Italian Restaurant. For an upscale experience at the Dead Sea, we suggest opting for the Kempinski Hotel Ishtar.
To conclude, here are additional tips to prepare your trip to Jordan:
- Money – the local currency is the dinar also known as “jay-dee” among young locals (1 JOD = 1.27 EUR/1.86 CAD).
- Entry Requirements (for tourism) – Visa is required for all visitors and is issued on arrival at international airports and most of Jordan’s land borders for 40 JOD (50 EUR/75 CAD) for most nationalities.
- Jordan Pass – If you plan to visit Petra and other main attractions, we highly recommend to get the Jordan Pass online before entering the country. It includes the cost of the visa in addition to giving free access to many sites.
- Petra – Petra is a geo-archaeological site where natural hazards can occur unexpectedly; stay vigilant. Also, please do not encourage child labor and any other illegal trading within the park.
- Women travellers – To minimize harassment outside trendy districts of Amman or Petra, aim for knee-length dresses or loose trousers while covering your shoulders and upper arms.
- Transport – Outside major cities, public transport is limited to intercity buses and adapt to the needs of locals. Renting a car is a better choice and will save you time. Driving is on the right and roads are in good conditions. We paid an extra for WiFi, it allowed us to use our mobile navigation applications to find our way on the road.
- Language – Arabic is the official language of Jordan. People speak fluent English in touristic areas and several other languages such as French and Spanish.
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